Kerongsang: A Guide to Kebaya Brooches, Old and New

A kebaya is not finished until it is fastened. For generations, the fastening has been a small, glittering act of style: the kerongsang.

The traditional kebaya has no buttons down the front. Instead, its opening is closed with a set of brooches, called kerongsang in Malay and kerosang among the Peranakan Chinese. They are functional, holding the garment modestly in place, and decorative, often taking the place of a necklace. With the kebaya inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity on 4 December 2024, in a joint nomination by Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand, interest in the brooches that complete it has never been higher.

Ibu and Anak: How a Set Works

A classic set has three pieces. The largest, worn at the top, is the kerongsang ibu, the “mother”. Below it sit two smaller brooches, the kerongsang anak, or “children”. The Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum in Melaka explains the arrangement in exactly these terms, and the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore describes this three-piece style, more popular in Melaka and Singapore, as the kerosang Melaka.

The museum notes that the origin of the kerosang is uncertain, though it has been suggested that the Peranakan Chinese adopted it from the Malays, who call it kerongsang. It was worn widely by women in island Southeast Asia, including mixed-heritage communities, and each community made it its own.

Malay and Peranakan Styles

In Malay tradition, a set is often called kerongsang tok. A 2023 article from Universiti Teknologi MARA describes it as old Malay jewellery in gold or gold-plated metal, worn with the kebaya labuh or kebaya pendek: two round brooches of the same size, with a heart- or paisley-shaped ibu pinned at the top. When the pieces are joined by a fine chain to stop them falling, the set is known as a kerongsang rantai; the article also records the name serong kerongsang. Malay designs typically feature leaves and flowers or a crescent and star, motifs associated with the goldsmiths of the East Coast and the wider Peninsula.

Peranakan kerosang lean towards abundance. Museum examples feature insects, Buddha’s hand citrus and other auspicious motifs, set with rose-cut diamonds in chiselled and repoussé gold. The same UiTM article notes that Melaka’s Chitty community has favoured kerongsang set with colourful gemstones. All three traditions share the same quiet logic: three pieces, one line down the heart of the kebaya.

A woman wearing a pale blue embroidered nyonya kebaya with a batik sarong — A nyonya kebaya worn with a batik sarong, photographed in 2007.
Photo: anuarsalleh / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Good to know

Placement: pin the ibu at the top of the opening and the two anak below it, spaced evenly.
Fabric: fine voile and lace snag easily. Pass the pin through a doubled seam where possible, and remove brooches before washing.
Chains: a chained set is less likely to be lost on a busy day, a sensible choice for weddings and Hari Raya visits.
Storage: keep each set in a soft, separate pouch so stones and pins do not scratch one another.

Buying Antique: What to Look For

Genuine antique kerongsang are increasingly scarce, and prices for fine pieces reflect it. Before you buy, ask where the set came from and whether the three pieces have always belonged together, as mismatched sets are common. Look closely at the pins and catches, which are often repaired or replaced, and at the stone settings. Ask the seller to put the metal and stones in writing, and for significant purchases have an independent jeweller test them. A beautiful reproduction is a perfectly good thing to own, as long as it is sold as one.

Buying New: A Living Craft

Kerongsang are far from museum pieces. Contemporary jewellers have revived traditional forms; the UiTM article cites a large Malaysian jewellery house that launched a kerongsang tok-inspired range around 2019, and designers continue to explore motifs such as awan larat, carved-wood patterns and kerawang. At the other end of the market, plated and costume sets in every colour make the look accessible for students, first-time wearers and anyone attending a themed event.

When choosing, think about weight as much as sparkle. Heavy brooches pull lightweight fabric out of shape, so match a delicate kebaya with a lighter set. For heirloom-style sets in solid gold, buy from established jewellers who state the gold purity clearly on the receipt.

Editor’s Note

To see fine kerosang up close, visit the Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum at 48 and 50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock in Melaka. It lists opening hours of 10am to 4.15pm on weekdays and 10am to 4.45pm at weekends, and is closed on Tuesdays. Confirm before you go.

For more on East Coast dress, see our guide to Terengganu batik and songket in modern style and our East Coast style seasons. However you wear it, a kerongsang is a small piece of history pinned over the heart.

Do you have a family kerongsang? Tell us its story in the comments below.

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